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Wednesday, 12 May 2010

The Spices of Everyday Life


I've decided to dedicate an entry to the contents of my masala dubba. This round stainless steel container was a gift from my mother. It comes with a lid, has removable compartments inside, and is filled with my favourite and most regularly used spices. These 7 spices are no secret, but I have been asked more than once to reveal the contents of my dubba. Here they are: turmeric, coriander powder, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, red chili powder, and garam masala. Having them all in once place has made cooking more convenient, and I've read that it is possible to make over 50 different dishes by using various combinations of only these 7 spices. 

Spices play multiple roles in Indian cuisine. Not only do they add aroma and flavour, but they also impart colour and can benefit the body in different ways. I've been reading Complete Book of Indian Cooking by Suneeta Vaswani, a Mumbai born chef who now resides in Houston. Here's what she has to say about each of the spices in my dubba.

Turmeric: This spice lends it's characteristic yellow colour to numerous Indian dishes. It is also used in several religious and social rituals, and as a vegetable dye. Turmeric comes from the ginger root family, but is used in powder form. It has antiseptic properties and is considered to be a blood purifier. Turmeric can be stored indefinitely in an airtight container.

Coriander Powder: Coriander is one of the two most widely used Indian spices. The powder comes from a seed about the size of a peppercorn but is golden-brown in colour. It is very versatile and has a sweet and spicy perfume-like aroma. Apart from being used whole or ground, it is also used in leaf from, referred to as fresh coriander or cilantro. The leaves and seeds however, are not interchangeable. The whole seeds can be stored indefinitely in an airtight container. 

Fenugreek Seeds: Fenugreek seeds are small, flat-sided, yellowish brown and very bitter. They are used whole at the beginning of a dish when they are flash-fried. The seeds may also be ground into powder for use in pickles and spice blends. 

Cumin Seeds: Along with coriander, cumin shares the honour of being the most widely used spice in Indian cuisine. It is a grayish, slightly thick seed often referred to as "white cumin." This is to distinguish it from "black cumin" or shah (royal) jeera. These seeds are used whole, usually flash-fried in hot oil, or toasted and powdered. Toasting releases the essential oils in the seeds, making them aromatic and mellow. Cumin is considered a digestive aid, and the seeds have an indefinite shelf-life.

Mustard Seeds: The black variety of mustard seeds is used throughout the country, but primarily in the South, and in the eastern state of Bengal. The leaves make for a popular dish in Punjab (sarson da saag) and is eaten with a corn-flour flatbread. The seeds are mostly used whole - flash-fried until they pop - but can also be crushed and added to pickles. Stored in a cool and dry place, mustard seeds can last for up to two years. Cold-pressed mustard seeds are used to make oil with a very distinct flavour. It is the preferred cooking-oil in Bengal, and when warmed, can be used topically to relieve joint pain. 

Red Chili Powder: In Indian cuisine, red chilies are typically used in powdered or dry form. The potency varies depending on the variety. Cayenne can be used for its piquancy whereas paprika gives colour without the heat. For both, use authentic Kashmiri red chilies, but feel free to omit them altogether if you don't tolerate hot food that well.  

Garam Masala: This is perhaps the most recognizable of all Indian spice blends. Literally, it means "warm mixture." This blend of aromatic spices varies from place to place, and is even customized in individual families. It is mainly a North Indian mixture and isn't used in the South, but Andhra Pradesh has its own very distinctive blend. The blend in my dubba is my mother-in-laws, with a few added secret ingredients of my own. If anyone wants the recipe for garam masala, feel free message me.

As a rule, I keep these basic spices well stocked, but I never purchase them in bulk and I try to use them quickly. As I mentioned before, whole spices have virtually indefinite shelf-lives, but spices in their powdered from are fragile, and deteriorate with exposure to air. Grinding small amounts just before using can yield far more aromatic flavours. Other delicate spices like saffron, cardamom, cloves, and bay leaves are only ever bought in small quantities.

On an slightly unrelated note, I tried Suneeta's Cayenne-spiked Apricot and Nut Pulao last week. After getting some feedback from my friends, I've modified the recipe a little. I'll be posting that next!

Monday, 3 May 2010

When you cook for someone you love...


Last week Pranav and I celebrated our second wedding anniversary. We've been doing a considerable amount of culinary globetrotting lately, but I settled on a simple 3-course Thai dinner for our special evening at home. A few days later, when I was chatting with my sister-in-law about the dishes I had prepared, she asked me to post the recipe for that evening's soup and salad. Here they are!

Lemongrass Coconut Soup (serves 2)

For the Stock:
1 1/2 cups of vegetable stock
1/2 cup coconut milk ( I use a brand called "Homemade")
1 tbsp chopped ginger
1 stalk of lemongrass finely minced
1 spring onion chopped
1 red chili slit down the length but otherwise left whole
salt to taste

In addition:
1/4 cup white mushroom very thinly sliced
1/4 cup carrots very thinly julienned 
1/4 cup tofu cut into small cubes
1/4 cup chopped coriander
dried chili flakes for garnish

Bring all the broth ingredients to a boil, then turn down the heat and let it all simmer for a good 20 minutes. Strain the broth and discard the flavouring ingredients. Keep the broth on simmer while you add the mushrooms, carrots, and tofu. When these are cooked (which should take no more than 3-5 minutes,) turn off the heat and add the coriander. Garnish with chili flakes if you so desire and serve hot. 

Nota bene: I cannot stress the importance of thinly slicing the vegetables. This soup is simpler than you might expect but a sure tragedy would be to serve it with mushy vegetables. The veggies should be thin enough to cook simply from the heat of the broth, yet they should retain their colour when you serve this delicious soup. 

Cucumber Salad (serves 2) 

1 large cucumber deseeded and sliced into strips (1/2 cm thin, and 5 cm long)
1 spring onion
1 red chili chopped (deseeded if you don't like your tongue on fire)
1 1/2 tbp white vinegar
1 tsp granulated sugar
salt to taste
chopped coriander for garnish

Add the spring onion, chopped chili, and granulated sugar to the vinegar. Whisk this together until the sugar and vinegar and properly combined. Pour this dressing over the cucumber strips just before serving and add salt to taste. Give it a light toss to evenly coat the cucumber and garnish with chopped coriander before serving. 

Nota bene: Whatever you do, don't dress this salad until you are absolutely ready to serve it. Cucumber tends to spring a little of its own water, so if the dressing is applied to early, the cucumber strips will be swimming in the dressing rather than being lightly coated. In addition, the flavours become more intense the longer you let the dressing sit, so it might get too spicy. 

Saturday, 24 April 2010

Pav Bhaji Saturday (and a smoothie)



11:32 AM - I'm writing this entry intermittently as I cook our Saturday lunch. Bless his heart, Pranav insisted on eating last night's left overs for lunch today, but I wanted to put something fresh on the menu. About 45 minutes ago, I set off downstairs to visit our condo's sabzi wala, a nice gentleman by the name of Satish who graciously brings the freshest fruits and vegetables - among other things - to our building's common area. I find his prices highly competitive plus, its incredibly reassuring to know that if I urgently need another potato, there are bushels just an elevator ride away. 

11:35 AM - My potatoes are boiled. Anyway, I went downstairs to compete with the other aunties and housewives for the best of the morning's vegetables. Shopping downstairs at 10:30 AM on the weekend is a death wish. Otherwise normal and courteous individuals lose all sense of civility and decency when it comes to gathering the plumpest tomatoes and perfectly ripened mangoes. I moved through the tiny mob as best as I could without literally stepping on anyone's toes, and selected my veggies. Today, for the first time, I stopped to ponder the bread and noticed a package of 6 fresh pav buns. 

11:50 AM - My bhaji is cooking. Rather impulsively, I picked up the buns and decided then and there that I would be making pav bhaji. For anyone who doesn't know, pav bhaji  is a famous Mumbai street meal consisting of buns and vegetables. Its quick to serve, and full of spicy goodness. That being said, I should also mention that I don't particularly like it. I've eaten it on many occasions, each time hoping that I would enjoy it more than the last, but I can honestly say that I've only ever loved it once. 

12:30 PM - We've been suffering a water shortage here in the Garden City, and the water just made a 25 minute appearance. I was able to do the dishes, and hand-wash three shirts. Moving along, that one time was with the Varade Family Doctors. The VFDs are good friends of mine from my university days, and their mom is an amazing cook. I have them to thank for my introduction to pani purisohan papdi and the one time that I actually enjoyed eating pav bhaji.

12:38 PM - Forgot to moisturize my hands. I should probably clarify something. I don't hate pav bhaji, I just don't know what all the hype is about. You take some mixed veg, toss it up in a wok or on the tawa, add a bunch of spices, squish it up, and shove it between the heavily buttered and toasted halves of a tiny bun. Garnish it with fresh coriander, add some chopped onion and squeeze a little lime on the bhaji, but it doesn't ever get more complicated than that. Maybe that's the beauty of it. The pav bhaji page on Facebook presently has 21, 432 members. I am not one of them. Here's a totally unrelated recipe to help you beat the heat and get 2 of your recommended 4 daily servings of fruit. 

Low Fat Banana and Strawberry Smoothie 
  • 1 large very ripe banana
  • 1 cup chopped strawberries
  • 1/2 cup 1% yoghurt
  • 1/2 cup skim milk
  • 1 tsp brown sugar
  • a squeeze of lemon
Simply blend all these ingredients together until the desired texture is achieved. If you prefer a lighter smoothie, then use more milk and adjust the sugar accordingly. If you like chunks of fruit, then don't blend it too smooth, and feel free to use honey if you'd like to avoid sugar altogether - gives a very different twist to this summery drink. Whatever you do, don't leave out the lemon! It enriches the flavours and brings them all together just beautifully. Enjoy!